Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
